Everything feels virtuous in Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s vegetable-forward version of his ABC Kitchen, from the white walls to the clean flavors that shine with extra wattage on his carefully crafted plates. To fully experience abcV, you’d start with a tonic with ashwagandha and ginseng to relax, then pair your green-chickpea hummus with a kale-and-spinach juice. Then move on to wine: Jeremy Mustakas’s list is all biodynamic, yet it steers clear of funk and dirt. Rather, he prioritizes clarity and precision, with bottles like Sinksey pinots and Vallette Beaujolais Blanc, Rivière Rioja and Beckman rosé of grenache. If this is virtuous dining, we’re all in.
38 E. 19th St., New York, NY
This story appears in the print issue of April 2018.
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