At A Côté in Oakland’s Rockridge neighborhood, Jeff Berlin and his staff guide tables through wines that lean toward ancient growing regions like Georgia, Lebanon, Greece and Slovenia. You’ll also find adventurous selections from France and Italy, like Gravners from the mid-2000s, and grapes like budai zöld from Hungary and cornalin from Switzerland. New chef Elaine Osuna has reenergized the menu with pan-Mediterranean dishes like ajo blanco (an almond-grape soup) and duck tagine.
5478 College Ave., Oakland, California
This story appears in the print issue of October 2019.
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