The latest bar to serve up its spin on speakeasy chic, Williams & Graham lurks behind a nondescript door in the back of a bookstore dedicated to all things booze. Located in Denver’s LoHi neighborhood, it’s a cozy, dimly lit vintage-meets-goth room where owner and head barkeep Sean Kenyon and his genuinely charming bartenders serve up an array of cocktails. Local hooch, including Leopold Bros, Stranahan’s and Spring 44, features prominently in drinks like the South Park and the Vodkatini; additions from orgeat to Bloody Mary mix are made in-house. We’re hooked on the Smoking Frenchman, a mezcal-kissed concoction that quenches the thirst brought on by the spicy, caramel-Marsala popcorn. A solid, compact menu, including an 11 pm to 1 am “third shift” board of three egg-based sandwiches, means you never have to drink on an empty stomach.
This review appears in the print edition of the April
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This story appears in the print issue of April 2012.
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