Chef Mark Liberman works out of an airy open kitchen that is clearly the heart and soul of his new restaurant. A third of the seats are at the kitchen’s counter, giving the sense of being in an artist friend’s loft while they cook. Liberman’s veg-centric cooking is focused and precise, with modernist touches: His berry-and-tomato gazpacho isn’t puréed or chunky; it’s clear. Peter Larue’s 35-bottle list leans towards light, bright wines from France, like François Chidaine chenin and pineau d’aunis from Janvier. There’s no California cabernet in sight, but there is a cab-zweigelt blend from Tschida in Austria, and a Czech pinot noir.
3762 Piedmont Ave. Oakland, CA
2019 W&S SF50
This story appears in the print issue of October 2019.
Like what you read? Subscribe today.