The wines by the glass at Bouligny Tavern are listed in user-friendly ascending order, lightest to fullest—from Evodia’s lithe 2007 Garnacha to Brancaia’s heady 2005 Toscana Tre Rosso, for example. The same could be said for the tavern’s ‘snacks.’ The bruschetta list begins with roasted fennel with tapenade and concludes at bone marrow and garlic; the particularly southern menu category, ‘Fried,’ runs from French fries to Gouda beignets, and seems a perfect match for the glass menu’s four sparklers. New Orleanians, a good eating bunch, don’t usually need such a menu-for-dummies approach, but this is the city’s first winecentric gastropub, so a nudge in the right direction is helpful. Decked out like a classed-up ‘70s lounge, Bouligny Tavern pushes the limits but gently—just as chef-proprietor John Harris did almost a decade ago when he opened Lilette Restaurant next door and introduced New Orleans to his fried boudin noir and hanger steak with marrow sauce, both of which are now Uptown standards.
This review appears in the print edition of the February 2011 issue. Like what you just read? Subscribe now.
This story appears in the print issue of February 2011.
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