Reservations have been hard to come by since Grant van Gameren’s Barcelona taberna–inspired Bar Isabel opened in March 2013. It has managed to sustain excitement and loyalty among Toronto’s foodies with an elemental recipe of outstanding food (including classic platos like whole roasted octopus and Basque seafood hotpot, plus various embutidos—cured meats, a specialty of van Gameren’s), top-level service (with several highly trained sommeliers on staff), one of the city’s best bar programs, and a wine list curated by GM Alessandro Pietropaolo. Spain features heavily, with selections ranging from the little-known Dominio do Bibei’s Lapola from Ribeira Sacra to celebrated bottles like Finca Dofì from Alvaro Palacios in Priorat. Two dozen by-the glass offerings (half dedicated to Sherry) change weekly, while 70 beers and ciders featuring craft Canadian and top Belgian brews, particularly sours, keep the whole table slaked. Van Gameren recently added Bar Raval to his expanding empire, a more casual pintxo bar with a small but clever wine list.
797 College St., Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Basque, Cocktail Bar
416-532-2222
505 College St., Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Basque, Cocktail Bar
647-344-8001
John Szabo MS is the Toronto-based author of Volcanic Wines (Jacqui Small Publishing 2016), co-founder of Volcanic Wines International, and partner and principal critic at WineAlign.com. He’s also part-time grapegrower on the limestones of Prince Edward County, Ontario.
This story appears in the print issue of August 2016.
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