This neighborhood bar, from Brooklyn restaurateur Andrew Tarlow, excels in simple pleasures. John Connolly’s wine list favors the rustic and the versatile, shining a light on unheralded French wines, from Aveyron to Vin de France, most well under $100. Chef Lee Desrosiers’ menu, which changes daily, re-imagines the possibilities of bar food—the offal, off-cuts and tartares are consistently outstanding. Just outside the door lies a daunting view of towering Midtown, and you may decide to never leave Brooklyn.
This review appears in the print edition of the April 2017 issue. Like what you just read? Subscribe now.
This story appears in the print issue of April 2017.
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