On Wednesday, December 7th, chef de cave Richard Geoffroy made a global declaration of the 2003 vintage for the house of Dom Pérignon. As hokey and embellished as the event promised to be (Geoffroy was to appear live via hologram in major cities worldwide), the geek factor was high, and I was almost as eager for the thrill of the spectacle as I was for a taste of the wine. (Come on, we’ve all gone to movies just to ogle the special effects…)
He explained that he hadn’t decided to bottle 2003 as a vintage at the time of picking or even from December to February, when the first fermentation was long completed and the base wine was settling into the early childhood stage of its élevage—but he sensed from day one, well before harvest, that “it was on.”
The wine itself is fresh, with the sweet exotic fruit of the vintage prevailing. The dosage is one of the lowest in DP history, second only to Oenothèque 1976—another challenging year. Geoffroy believes it will withstand the test of time, and I will be interested to see if he’s right.
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