From husband-and-wife team Chris Gaither (former wine director at Gary Danko) and Rebecca Fineman, MS, Ungrafted packs some serious juice into its gussied-up industrial warehouse space in Dogpatch. The couple’s tastes lean toward the classics: A lot of Champagne, both growers and grand marques, plus Burgundy and a significant Bordeaux collection, ranging from first growths to humbler bottles like a 2008 Domaine de Chevalier. Dishes like kanpachi crudo with wild arugula and a standout grilled octopus with patatas bravas and smoked-pepper aioli are simply presented, calibrated to let the wines shine. “The most popular table is a six-top in the corner, next to a play area for kids,” says Stock & Bones Group wine director (and mother of two) Haley Moore.