For many Canadians, especially the French-speaking sort, “comfort food” refers to classically French, rustically haute Quebecois dishes like tourtière, a sort of pot pie, or la choucroute garnie. At St. Lawrence, chef JC Poirier presents them with a luxuriously all-French wine program. Start with le vrai French 75, made with Cognac, or an exuberant Vincent Caillé X Bulles pét-nat from Nantais, with steak tartare, chèvre noir and potato chips. When you get to the venison-filled tourtière, move on to a Clos du Tue-Boeuf Pineau d’Aunis or Clot de l’Oum Compagnie des Papillons. And then there’s the maple-syrup tin over-flowing with oreilles de crisse (deep-fried pork rinds) tossed in maple syrup and Montreal steak spice, paired with a Labatt 50 in a tall can. Whether you were raised a Canuck or not, it will make you sing “O Canada” en Français.