A project from French Laundry alums Nick and Sandra Arnerich, Renata is the latest addition to industrial Southeast Portland’s flourishing culinary corridor. Behind a glowing sign reading “Mi Piace,” (“I like it” in Italian) over the open kitchen, Matthew Sigler (previously of San Francisco’s Flour + Water and Quince) mans a wood-fired stove where he gives local ingredients an Italian makeover. Hand-rolled pastas are topped with lusty combinations like lamb sausage, clams and charred leeks; trout gets grilled and paired with white beans and a pistachio-currant relish. Wine director Chris Wright follows suit with a list focused on the Pacific Northwest and Italy, including gems like Pievalta’s sparkling verdicchio from Marche as well as a pinot meunier from local-favorite Teutonic Wine Company. Arrive early to dinner and visit the other two tenants in the historic building: Ancient Heritage Creamery—the city’s first urban creamery—and Alma Chocolates.