There’s no wine list at Ops; instead, scan the bottles on the shelves, or ask the waitstaff for guidance. They’ll pour any wine by the glass for $12, regardless of bottle price. When it comes to bottles, Mike Fadem (formally of Estela and Roman’s) uses a sliding scale for markups, so that the most expensive wines receive the smallest margin. Prices top out at $60, which means the savvy drinker can seek out a steal, including cult favorites like Radikon or Marie-Courtin Champagne. To eat, get the square pie, its sourdough crust topped with tomatoes, olives and house-made mozzarella.

346 Himrod St., Brooklyn, New York



2018 W&S NYC50

This review appears in the print edtion of the April 2018 issue.
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