Modern Hawaiian is the name of the game at Noreetuh. Taking its name from the Korean word for playground, this place may tempt you to slide down the riesling rabbit hole. Jin Ahn has broken up his selections by levels of sweetness and not only has a page dedicated to Dönnhoff, but to their most famous site, Niederhauser Hermannshöhle. Château Musar also gets a spotlight, with a page of mini verticals. You can drink well for under $100, even bottles with some age. A. et P. de Villaine Bouzeron 1998 and Caves São João Poço do Lobo Arinto 1995: either is available for $65—I’ll take both, and an order of spam agnolotti.
photo by Evan Sung