Diego Garcia was a sous chef at Le Bernardin before moving downtown to Contra. Phil Johnson, another Contra alum, met Garcia during a stint pouring wine at Aldo Sohm Wine Bar. They teamed up to open Gloria, a humble spot mastering a meatless menu and offering French and new California natural wines that fall in the sweet spot of $50 to $75. The seafood is wild, sustainable and from the north Atlantic. The crab is blanketed with saffron-infused bouillabaisse sabayon and topped with nasturtium leaves while the monkfish medallions laid across a mound of silky potato-and-turnip purée measures up to its three-star sibling at Le Bernardin.