Step into this cozy corner spot in Vancouver’s fringe-industrial Railtown, and go ahead, ask for Luigi. If there is a Luigi to be found, he’ll be busy tucking into plates of family-style antipasti or toothsome house-made pasta while downing a tumbler of wine poured from tap or tossing back a spritz or three. Who will most likely greet you is Matthew Morgenstern, the fellow with the corkscrew and that wicked I’ve-got-some-thing-up-my-sleeve-for-you grin. His unaffected and honest demeanor mirrors the food and wine on offer. In addition to the tap selections, he rolls out a small whites-focused Italian list, everything available by the bottle, half-liter or glass. When a new bottle is opened, a bell rings and knowing eyes watch the old-school plastic letter board to see what’s new. The 2015 Offida Deja Passerina from Domodimonti with crispy warm cauliflower and olives? Si, grazie.