After a career spent focusing on Italian cuisine, Michael Chiarello takes on Spain at Coqueta. The glowing dining room and pocket-sized glass box of a bar are wedged against the bay along San Francisco’s Embarcadero. Walk-ins from the promenade stop by for small plates of Manchego, white anchovies and garlicky head-on prawns. And you’re likely to fi nd friends from the nearby Financial District drinking Napa cabernet. But for those who want to explore the width and breadth of Spain, Coqueta offers plenty of refreshing Galician whites and powerful Riberas, plus off-the-beaten-path selections like a varietal bottling of graciano from Navarra and a handful of reds from the Canary Islands. Joe Cleveland, formerly with the José Andres group in Washington, DC, mixes Modernist cocktails, offering multiple takes on the current Spanish craze for “gintonic” alongside deconstructed Mojitos with “lime air” and ingredients like tobacco-infused cream Sherry.