Restaurant Review: Chicago, Illinois

Proxi


 photo by Paul Strabbing

When Proxi opened this fall, the wine world was in thrall: From the team at Sepia, a fine-dining place around the corner, it featured a tight, well-priced wine program by star sommelier Arthur Hon. Hon opened with an all-Loire list, with plans to change the focus periodically, as chef Andrew Zimmerman does with his menu, a globe-trotting collection of dishes inspired by street food. Now Jennifer Wagoner, from StripSteak by Michael Mina in Miami Beach, carries on the theme, since Hon decamped for Union Square Cafe in NYC. This fall, the list focused on “The Triple A’s”—Austria, Australia and Argentina—with the likes of Weininger Gemischter Satz for tempura elotes, Denario Patagonian malbec for Thai-style wagyu beef salad and Vasse Felix’s Margaret River cabernet for a pork porterhouse. What’s next is anyone’s guess.