Restaurant Review: Seattle, Washington

How to Cook a Wolf

How to Cook a Wolf Over the past year, Seattle has seen an explosion of microrestaurants —intimate spaces with casually exquisite food. One of the best of this new breed is How to Cook a Wolf, the third venture from Union chef Ethan Stowell. Paneled in blond wooden slats and sheets of hammered copper, the 23-seat restaurant features a menu of small plates and pastas. Sommelier Angela Stowell has a fondness for small-production wineries from France and Italy (pinot grigio from Alto Adige’s Peter Zemmer, Les Granges from Chinon’s Baudry), mirroring her husband’s love for slightly arcane ingredients like hedgehog mushrooms, beef tongue, and crab apples, which he seeds into simple, seasonal fare.