Restaurant Review: Venice, Italy

Enoiteca Maschereta


 photo by Nan McElroy

Seasoned wine vendor, wine maker and, most importantly, wine drinker, Mauro Lorenzon is a legend in Venetian wine circles. His “enoiteca,” a term he coined back in 1990 to describe a wine store (enoteca) that also serves food and pours wines by the glass, caters to well-informed tourists and industry folk who flock to the bar area after service. There is no wine list per se, as bottles are displayed on shelves throughout the enoiteca. All hundred or so bottles are available by the glass, including everything from older vintage Barolos to Lorenzon’s own col fondo (sur lie) Prosecco. Should you be fortunate enough to show up when Lorenzon is present (he generally works weekends), don’t miss your chance to talk grape juice. His insightful wine knowledge is surpassed only by his gregarious character and distinctive fashion sense: He doesn’t go a day without a sequin vest, a bowtie and missmatched Converse sneakers. Gin and Tonic lovers take note: Lorenzon stocks more than 50 gins from around the world and 12 tonic waters.

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