Back in 1999, I had the opportunity to buy a small piece of Burgundy—a share in a half-hectare of Beaune Pertuisots, farmed by Jean-Yves Devevey. It’s enough premier-cru land to make up to 10 barrels a year at the full permitted yield—if the weather were to cooperate. Instead, Devevey made…
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This story appears in the print issue of October 2021.
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