In his cellar near the shores of eastern Austria’s Neusiedlersee, Gernot Heinrich dipped his thief into a wine barrel and drew out something luminously geranium red. Redolent of roses and heliotrope, orange and grapefruit rinds, it felt rich, yet was brightly refreshing. Black-tea smokiness, salinity and peppery bite led…
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This story appears in the print issue
of December 2017.
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