“If I could change the appellation regulations, I’d burn all the syrah and viognier,” says Benjamin Taillandier. A stocky, young guy prone to audacious statements, he insists he’s entirely serious. “Syrah isn’t from here; if we’re going to grow it, we might as well have pinot noir and chardonnay, too.”
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This story appears in the print issue
of June 2017.
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