Daniel Pisano is holding court at the head of a farmhouse table. “Some people are trying to domesticate tannins,” he says, gesturing to his glass of tannat. “We say, ‘Why domesticate the thoroughbred? If you don’t like the nerve of that kind of horse, buy yourself a pony.’ Or…
To read this article and more,
To continue reading without interruption, subscribe and get unlimited digital access to our web content and wine search.
This story appears in the print issue
of June 2019.
Like what you read? Subscribe today.