Names of candy take up a lot of real estate in my tasting notes: Banana Laffy Taffy, Haribo Gold-Bear (the pineapple one), Trolli Peachie O’s.
These brands are relatable and engraved into my taste memory. My friends and I were bribed with them as children; there was a whole holiday devoted to gathering them door to door. And I’m still tempted by racks of them in the checkout line.
And while some may wax poetic with their tasting notes, I like to talk about wine and how it relates to candy: the taste and ageability. Because, at the end of the day, isn’t something like, say, riesling really just somm candy?
In cool climates, such as Germany’s Mosel Valley, riesling exhibits noticeable levels of acidity sometimes balanced with residual sugar making it the Warheads of the wine world.
First imported to the US in 1993, Warheads brought “sour to the people” with ingredients that include sugar, malic acid, citric acid and ascorbic acid. The candy is face scrunching and eye-watering at the onset, but mellows to a much milder, balanced flavor.
Nowhere near the pucker-level of Warheads, Sour Skittles stepped onto the scene in 2000. Their catchphrase: “Taste the rainbow.” When eaten by the handful, you get a fizzy sensation from the coating of citric acid, which melts away into a soft lemon-lime and red-fruit flavor more akin to Champagne—intensely fruity without being sweet.
Getting Some Box Age
Aging wine changes the color (light to dark for white and dark to light for red); aroma and palate (primary to secondary and tertiary); and texture, mellowing tannins and acid. Some people enjoy their wine young and fresh and others jones for the complexity that comes from a few years in bottle. Just as many wines can benefit from a few years of evolution, so can candy. Aging candy mostly affects its textural component. Naysayers may call this stale, but I think of it as a more toothsome chew, reveling in the unique version of the original product.
Jujubes are perhaps the best, and my favorite, example of how a candy can benefit from some time. If you pick up a fresh pack, you will find that they are not actually produced as hard candy. You can chew them and your bottom teeth will inevitably be glued to your top teeth. Jujubes develop their firmness because, with flavors like violet and lilac (which is orange) in the mix, few people actually buy them. As they stiffen up on the shelves, chewing is no longer an option—allowing the candy to soften in your mouth is the safest route for ingestion.
Oxidizing Your Easter Candy
And while I believe, as a rule of thumb, you should always look for an older, aged-for-you box, there are exceptions, and those are called Peeps—the Beaujolais Nouveau of the candy world.
Just Born, Inc., makes a point to ensure the freshness of their product and believes that their Peeps are best consumed immediately upon release. When I crave a more firm marshmallow, I must resort to aging these candies myself. The preferred method? Poke a hole in the plastic packaging and let the birds get a little air. I might prepare them to age anywhere from a few days to a month, but about a week is the sweet spot for getting that nice chewy outer shell.
This story was featured in W&S October 2017.
illustrations by Vivian Ho
Deanna Gonnella, is a graduate of NYC’s International Culinary Center’s Classic Culinary Arts program, a private chef and our in-house expert on all things culinary. She’s also worked the floor as a sommelier, and advised buyers at Vintry Fine Wines in Manhattan, so she knows a thing or two about wine.
This story appears in the print issue of October 2017. Like what you read? Subscribe today.
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Stephanie Johnson
Italian Wine Critic
Stephanie joined Wine & Spirits Magazine as Tasting Director in 2013 and became Italian Wine Editor in 2016. She spends a significant amount of time each year visiting Italy’s wine regions, tasting with producers and researching articles about their practices. Stephanie holds the WSET Diploma in Wine & Spirits and has worked in the wine retail and restaurant sectors, including five years as Wine Director at City Winery in NYC’s SoHo district. She previously worked in textbook publishing as an editor and marketing manager in Minneapolis, Chicago, Austin and Tokyo.
Thomas Whalen.
Sales Manager
Tom worked in fine wine sales at Zachy’s in Westchester and Crush in NYC before joining the W&S team handling advertising sales. A graduate of Skidmore College, Tom got his start in the industry through hospitality, including a stint as the GM and partner in Post Office Bar. He has also done consulting work for private clients on their wine cellars.
Tom brings a depth of knowledge to his role and, when he’s not networking with marketers, he’s busy raising his one-year-old son, listening to classic rock, or dipping back into Jon Bonné’s California Wine.
Alissa Bica
Tastings Coordinator
Based in Los Angeles, California, Alissa Bica is the Spirits Editor and Critic at Wine & Spirits. She is also a Certified Sommelier and co-runs the home wine tasting company, Côte Brune and Blonde. In any rare moments of free time, she writes about obscure grape varieties in the blog Off the Beaten Wine Path.
David Paradela
Associate Editor
David joined Wine & Spirits in 2021 after immersing himself in the world of wine at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. Originally from Boston, he graduated from Boston University with a degree in English and completed a master’s degree in Publishing and Writing from Emerson College in 2021. Prior to working at the magazine, he served as an editor and staff writer for the music blog Sound of Boston and worked in scientific publishing. Aside from wine, he loves basketball, arguing about Taylor Swift’s best album, and everything Greta Gerwig touches.
Corey Warren
Tastings Editor
Corey Warren moved to New York in 2015—fifteen years too late to join The Strokes—after earning a degree at Cornell in Comparative Literature. He started polishing glasses at Betony and threw himself into the restaurant world. Later, while a captain at Aquavit, he began working part time in the Wine & Spirits tasting department. Now, in addition to running tastings, he serves as critic for the wines of the Loire, Southern France, Argentina and South Africa. Corey likes almost anything bubbly, from Miller High Life, the Champagne of beers, to Champagne, the Champagne of Champagne, but he’ll drink anything once, and loves finding unique wines.
Tara Q. Thomas
Editor at Large
Since Tara Q. Thomas joined Wine & Spirits in 1997, she’s traveled the wine world from Argentina to Australia. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, with more than 20 years of experience in the food and wine world, Tara puts her culinary knowledge to use as W&S’s resident food critic, and is the critic for the wines of Austria, Germany, Eastern Europe, Argentina, and the Mediterranean. She’s particularly enthusiastic about the wines of Greece, where she once lived and cooked. Outside of W&S, Tara has authored two books, The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics and The Pocket Idiot’s Guide to Wine; contributed to the Oxford Companion to Cheese as well as Oxford’s forthcoming volume on spirits; and writes a wine column for Culture: The Word on Cheese.
Patrick J. Comiskey
Senior Correspondent
A former sommelier, Patrick J. Comiskey serves as the W&S critic for all domestic wines outside of California—including New York, Oregon and Washington—and contributes articles on the wines and viticulture of these areas. His wine travels include regular visits to US wine regions, as well as trips to France, Italy, Germany and Australia. Comiskey’s writing credentials include contributions to the San Francisco Chronicle’s wine section, the Los Angeles Times, Bon Appétit and the Robb Report, and also teaches classes and moderates panels on viticulture, wine tasting and various wine regions. His recent book, American Rhône: How Maverick Winemakers Changed the Way Americans Drink (UC Press 2017), was shortlisted for the 2016 André Simon Food & Drink Book Award and 2017 Louis Roederer Domaine Faiveley Wine Book of the Year.
Annette Farrell
Production Manager
Annette's entire career has revolved around magazine and print production, developing systems, and providing production support for dozens of magazines at a number of large publishing companies, including McGraw Hill, Condé Nast, and Hearst. Annette has joined the Wine & Spirits team to manage our production systems and develop and optimize our print production process.
Susannah Smith
Editorial Coordinator
As a retail buyer, Susannah traveled abroad extensively, especially in Italy and Greece, to learn the stories behind her favorite wines and then connect others with the vines and the humans that make them. She is excited to join W&S, since that is the magazine’s mission. Raised to be curious, she finds, after over 20 years in the world of food and wine, that she loves best how wine touches so many disciplines—history, language, geology, cuisine, biology, horticulture—keeping the quest for knowledge fresh every day.
Joshua Greene
Publisher & Editor
Editor and Publisher of Wine & Spirits since 1986, Joshua Greene began drinking wine with meals during a summer in Galicia, Spain, at the age of 13. In later years, he worked in wine shops in western Massachusetts and served as wine captain at Wheatleigh, a small inn in Lenox. After graduating from Princeton University in 1981, Greene pursued a career in magazines, focusing on the management of special-interest publications. His work with Wine & Spirits began on a consulting basis, eventually leading to his purchase of the magazine in 1989.
Greene has traveled extensively in the wine regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Portugal, Italy, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, and all the major wine regions of the United States. In addition to his duties as editor and publisher, Greene serves as the critic for Napa Valley, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Portugal, Rioja, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. He also writes feature stories and commentary for each issue of the magazine.
Nick Mrozowski
Art Director
As the former creative director of WWD magazine and Adweek magazine in New York Nick has extensive experience in the areas of advertising, marketing and branding.
Roy Schneider Jr.
Director of Finance
Roy joined Wine & Spirits in 2003 to oversee the daily and long-term finances of the magazine. He handles cash flow works alongside the publisher to develop and fine tune strategic plans; Roy also manages basic business operations of the company—from IT to human resources. If there’s a problem, he’ll solve it.
Having begun his career on Wall Street, Roy holds an MBA from NYU Stern School of Business and has worked for a number of corporate and boutique firms from New York to Japan. While he clearly enjoys wines—having, over the years, sampled many thousands—he remains true to his Caribbean roots and maintains a primary love for rum.
Chloe Jenkins
Account Manager
Having spent nearly a decade in the marketing world, Chloe followed her enthusiasm for wine to work at a wine marketing company, before joining the team at Wine & Spirits. She loves using creative strategy to help brands tell their stories and connect with their audiences. Chloe holds a Level 3 (Advanced) Certification from the WSET, as well as specializations in French and Italian wine.
Patricio Tapia
Senior Correspondent
After graduating with a degree in journalism from the Universidad de Chile in Santiago, Patricio Tapia attended Bordeaux University in France, where he studied for a diploma in wine tasting and winemaking. Since then, he has visited wine regions around the world and authored several books, including his annual Descorchados, a Chilean wine guide; The Wines of Colchagua Valley;TodoVino and Wines for Great Occasions. Tapia is also the South American correspondent for The Oxford Companion to Wine,The World Atlas of Wine and Oz Clarke’s Pocket Wine Book. For the past three years, he’s been a host on the El Gourmet channel in South America. At Wine & Spirits, Tapia is the critic for the wines of Argentina, Chile and Spain, and regularly contributes articles on these regions.
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