Restaurant Review: New York, New York

Atoboy


Squid, pork, shrimp, salsa verde

In a 28th Street space that’s minimalist cool, chef Junghyun Park (formerly of Jungsik) is plating up some of New York’s finest Korean fare. He excels at the four-ingredient dish, turning something as simple as leeks in doenjang into a silken, sweet-salty fugue. The plates aren’t large, nor are they bite-sized and precious. Budget $36 for three of them, then search out a bottle on Ellia Park’s wine list—a concise collection of zesty grüner veltliners and mineral-laden Burgundies punctuated by new Loire and Jura favorites.

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