Restaurant Review: New York, New York

Racines



A partnership between Racines owner David Lanher, sommelier Arnaud Tronche and David Lillie of Chambers Street Wines one block away, Racines is a Francophile’s dream. Champagnes from the likes of Jérôme Prévost and Cédric Bouchard lead into a list heavy in Loire bottles, including aged Pépière Muscadet, Cazin Cour-Cheverny and magnums of Riffault Sancerre. Let the knowledgeable staff fill your glass. Then order some food: Marseilles-born chef Frédéric Duca has a light hand in the kitchen, turning out wine-friendly dishes like farro and shaved mushrooms with lardo whipped into a cream, or sweetbreads roasted with caraway seeds.


April 2016: France native Arnaud Tronche and David Lillie, the Loire expert who runs Chambers Street Wines down the block, have made this o shoot of the well-regarded Paris bistrot à vins the place to drink for anyone interested in high-quality, low-intervention wines. The Loire list, in particular, is unmatched in New York, rich in aged Muscadet and other unexpected wonders. Props to Frédéric Duca, a chef from Marseilles, who respects the wine with his understated, elegant dishes.


April 2017: At this offshoot of the Paris bistrots à vins, owner Arnaud Tronche packs the wine list with wine-geek catnip—pages of Jura whites, long lists of aged Vouvray, verticals in red and white Burgundy, plus cult classics like Trévallon, Hauvette and Tempier—while Marseilles-born chef Frédéric Duca respects the wine with understated, elegant dishes. France may get the most extensive coverage but Tronche’s selections from Germany to California are just as savvy, focused on low-intervention wines at terrific prices.