Borderies is Cognac’s smallest grape-producing cru—a mere 5 percent of the area’s total grape-growing land. It’s known for producing grapes with particularly floral and mineral characteristics, but the brandies made from its fruit usually get blended with brandies from other areas, or are aged for a lengthy time and sold as ultra-premium spirits. CAMUS, one of the largest owners of vineyards in the region, bucks tradition with this VSOP Cognac. Distilled solely from ugni blanc grown in Borderies, it’s lively and juicy, with dark flavors of coffee, pistachios, toffee and milk chocolate rounding out the area’s signature floral and mineral qualities. It’s an excellent Cognac made even better by the outstanding price.
Reviewed in W&S Winter 2014.