Restaurant Review: Flagstaff, Arizona

Pizzicletta


In a quirky, cozy space squeezed into the point of an odd-angled intersection, Caleb Schiff has gained a cult following for his pizzas. He starts with a wild-yeast dough that ferments for three days before he rolls it out, then tops it with house-made mozzarella or burrata and a select array of local and Italian ingredients. Cooked at 900˚F in a wood-fired oven he had custom built in Italy, the Neapolitan-style pies come out thin and perfectly charred. Schiff’s recipe originates with a bike trek he took up the length of Italy several years ago, gathering recipes and inspiration along the way. He also fell hard for the country’s wine, a passion on display in his all-Italian wine list, which showcases bottles from vintners he’s befriended, like Paolo Bea in Umbria and Mario Zanusso of iClivi in Friuli, as well as a pizza-ready Moretto Lambrusco. Locals have benefited from Schiff’s commitment to Italian wines, too, as it’s increased the availability of harder-to-find wines like Gravner Breg and older vintages of Sacrisassi Rosso.