Restaurant Review: San Francisco, California

Octavia


Like Frances, Melissa Perello’s Castro restaurant Octavia feels comfortable and unassuming, with wooden tables and little in the way of décor. Start with cold squid-ink noodles with bottarga, a salty and primal introduction to the purity of her cooking. Joshua Thomas’s wine list boasts a modest but smart collection of Burgundies, with plenty of options for those who can’t afford Volnay, from Moric blaufränkisch and Montlouis to new discoveries like Skinner mourvedre from California’s Sierra Foothills.

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