Run by two Brooklyn restaurateurs, Tom Kearney of The Farm on Adderly and Henry Rich of Rucola, this small space feels like a flapper-era Parisian hideaway, with dark wood and dim dressing room lights. Behind the long bar, a bearded bartender mixes up cocktails with names like Terra Incognita, a wintry mix that includes Bonal, blood orange, fig and walnut bitters and smoked salt. He pulls pints of little-seen beers, like Color Field Wild Ale from Grimm, a nomadic brewery. And in the next moment, he’s advising on the finer points of Tessier’s Cour-Cheverny versus Podere di Rosa’a Chiesino Bianco—the latter, with its slightly tannic grip, having the upper hand with the night’s star dish, a bowl of slow-baked baby carrots topped with a walnut gremolata. The wine list, curated by consultant Nick Gorevic, isn’t long, but it’s packed with compelling, natural-leaning wines, including magnums of Lassaigne Champagne.