Restaurant Review: San Francisco, California

Cala


Torta ahogada with pork carnitas

In a converted Hayes Valley garage, Mexico City–born chef Gabriela Cámara turns out vividly flavored Mexican food, often seafood-driven—think halibut ceviche with fennel, daikon radish and jalapeños. And Lauren Feldman’s tight wine list is clearly chosen with Cámara’s food in mind. The smokiness of the chipotle-laced trout tostadas sings with Vini della Staffa’s sparkling sangiovese, and Jolie-Laide’s gamay from the Sierra Foothills shimmers with just about anything on the menu.

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