Restaurant Review: Miami, Florida

Abaco


Abaco might be the sleekest wine store to open in the last year, a glassy mecca of bottles in Miami’s newly revamped Design District. It’s a new venture for Andy Barowsky, who sold Lepage Bakeries, one of the country’s largest privately owned wholesale bakeries, in 2012. He and his business partner, Ben Disesa, hired Bohlin Cywinski Jackson—the firm that designed Apple’s Fifth Avenue store in NYC—to create a spare, clean-lined space as sophisticated as it is user-friendly. There are iPads throughout the store, as well as an eager staff ready to engage, and a tasting bar to try out wines alongside cheese and charcuterie. The selection is eclectic, focused on bottles that aren’t so common around town: Barowsky’s current pride is a cache of Domaine Weinbach’s single-vineyard pinot gris, while Disesa leans toward reds like the Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso and Bernhard Huber’s Sommerhalde Spätburgunder, discovered on a recent trip to Baden in Germany.