Apostoles Thymiopoulos has been breathing new energy into Naoussa since he graduated from enology school in Athens. His first project after taking over his family’s 200 acres of organically farmed, 40-year-old vineyards at the base of Mount Vermio was the 2005 Ghi ke Uranos (Earth and Sky), a Naoussa that took advantage of the relative warmth of his southerly vineyards to produce a xinomavro darker and denser than most any that came before. Now he’s come up with another game-changer, the 2009 Young Vines. Bright and juicy, it’s the polar opposite of everything we’ve come to expect about xinomavro (tannic, earthy, brickish), and exciting in the possibilities it opens up. It’s also priced to move ($15) and ready to drink now, while you wait for your classic Naoussas to soften up.