When Aldo Sohm, the long-time sommelier of Le Bernardin in New York City, and his winemaker friend Gerhard Kracher, of Austria’s Neusiedlersee, told people they were making wine in the Weinviertel, they’d say, “‘Where?! Not the Wachau? What about Kamptal?’ They thought we were crazy,” Sohm recalls. Their first release, the 2009 Niederösterreich Grüner Veltliner, proves that they aren’t: Off 40-yearold vines, left to spontaneously ferment in barrel and bottled without filtration, it’s one of the most profound, head-turning grüner veltliners we’ve ever tasted—savory and succulent, mouthfilling yet structured, with a glinting acidity that aims directly at the salivary glands. Amounts of the 2010 are so small you’re not likely to find it, but keep your eyes out for future releases.