Winery to Watch 2015

Mosel, Germany: Richard Böcking

Although this estate dates to Napoleon’s time, it had fallen off the map until 2010, when owner Leweke von Marschall decided she either needed to sell the winery or pour energy into renewing it. She went for a complete overhaul, as the estate has great bones—all of its holdings are in top-class sites, such as Trarbacher Schlossberg, a steep slope of decomposed gray slate with vines as old as 80 years. Her new team is led by 33-year-old winemaker Simon Trös, who vinifies without added yeast, and ages the wines in a combination of oak and stainless steel. The 2012s—the first vintage from the renewed estate—are impressive across the board, most especially the Alte Reben QbA, its stony flavor welling up to fill the mouth with a force and presence that promises more to come with time.