Morton Hallgren grew up in Provence, where his family farmed the Domaine de Castel Roubine and its 170 acres of vines. He studied enology and worked a harvest at Cos d’Estournel in St-Estèphe before heading to the New World. Willy Frank at Dr. Konstantin Frank recruited him to the Finger Lakes from the Biltmore Estate in North Carolina and he worked with Frank for six years before starting Ravines with his wife, Lisa, in 2000. They caught our attention for the Argetsinger Riesling, a bottling from one of the oldest riesling vineyards on Seneca Lake. It’s austerely dry andmineral-driven, the kind of riesling that’s hard to find in the New World. This past May, the Hallgrens closed on 42 acres of vineyards and the White Springs winery in Geneva, also on Seneca Lake—a huge step for what has been a small, artisanal project. Suddenly, Ravines is in the big leagues and we’re curious to see what the Hallgrens will do with their new assets.