In the 1980s, while at university, Laurens Hartman ran a small business with his fraternity brothers, selling wine they’d bought on trips to Burgundy and Champagne. Hartman went into publishing but continued to make pilgrimages to France for wine, until he decided he needed to make his own. He and his wife, Annette, looked to Greece, where his mother was born, and settled on Amyndeon, a plateau at 2,200 feet in the far northwest of the country. “I found everything we looked for: altitude, history, a sensational grape variety, snow, rains, enormous di erential between day and night temperatures,” he says. Searching out old, ungrafted xinomavro vines and farming them biodynamically, he began bottling light-bodied reds with spiced cherry scents, their bright acidity differentiating them from the richer examples grown in Naoussa. In 2009, he started to experiment with Champagne-method sparkling wine: His Brut Cuvée Speciale is lean and elegant, the fine bubbles accentuating its crisp, palate-whetting clarity.