Sara and Luca Carbone grow aglianico, as well as fiano and muscato, in vineyards their father and uncle planted in the 1970s in Melfi . They designed a winery and built an aging cellar into the volcanic rock in 2005, the first vintage they bottled their own wines. They vinified and aged their 2011 Terra dei Fuochi in stainless steel, producing a light and airy take on Aglianico del Vulture. Their top selection, called 400 Some, includes fruit from their older vines. Aged in barrique, the wine is more than present enough to behave as if the wood weren’t there. It’s a heady blast of spice, a red from the south with friction.