Pablo Morandé changed the course of Chile’s white-wine history in the 1980s when he began planting vines in the ocean-cooled Casablanca Valley. He was working for Concha y Toro at the time, but planted the vines on his own. Recently, from his family’s home base in Casablanca, he’s launched Bodegas RE, a project where almost anything goes. His portfolio includes whites vinified as reds and reds vinified as whites; grapes from very old dry-farmed vineyards, aged in even older clay amphorae; chardonnay aged under a veil of fl or; rosés that taste like robust reds. And they are some of the most exciting wines we’ve ever tasted out of Chile. Bodegas RE is the newest laboratory for Morandé, a winemaker whose curiosity seems to never grow old.