A Chianti Classico Riserva Holdout Joins the Gran Selezione Fold
Laura and Fabrizio Bianchi
Fabrizio Bianchi’s bottling of a 1962 Chianti Classico from the family’s Il Poggio vineyard is credited as the first single-vineyard wine from the appellation. His daughter, Laura Bianchi, now runs the estate. She was opposed to the Gran Selezione category when it was created in 2014, considering the regulations lax. Now that the consorzio is considering requiring higher percentages of sangiovese, the possible reduction or elimination of international varieties and the official recognition of Chianti Classico’s subzones, she’s made a statement by bottling this vintage of Il Poggio as a Gran Selezione. The 2014 growing season was a difficult vintage in the region, with clouds and rain throughout the summer delaying ripening. Il Poggio is one of the more compelling Chianti Classicos from 2014, thanks to the vineyard’s well-draining galestro soils, ventilated hillside exposition, old vines and intensive manual work by Bianchi’s team to thin the canopy around the bunches. They did a strict selection at harvest and produced only 7,000 bottles, less than half the average production. A traditional blend of sangiovese with five percent of canaiolo and colorino, the wine offers lively flavors of cherry, cranberry and pomegranate driven by brisk acidity and balanced by notes of smoke, dried leaves and blistered cherry tomatoes. Its classic Tuscan flavors call for pairing with tomato-based pasta sauces.
MW Imports, White Plains, NY
Castello di Monsanto 2014 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna Il Poggio
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