White Wine Discovery


95
Fritsch 2015 Wagram Erste Lage Mordthal Grüner Veltliner

Price: $25
Grape Varietal: Grüner Veltliner
Region/Appellation: Wagram, Austria
Imported by Monika Caha Selections/ Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY

Karl Fritsch specializes in grüner veltliner, and has tended his vines biodynamically since 2006. Mordthal is one of his most prized parcels, a south-facing patch of loess over slate. In the warmth of 2015, it produced a wine that rendered our tasting panel near speechless. In part, it’s the way the satiny fruit wraps around the mouth, leaving impressions of honeyed peach and pineapple without any weight. In part, it’s because of the profound mineral tone, somewhere between dashi and clean, wet stone. Those flavors last for minutes, striking an impressive balance between sweet and savory, lush and precise.

review by Tara Q. Thomas

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