Lance Winters of St. George Spirits helped reinvent American vodka when he co-created the Hangar One line and its exotic flavors like Buddha’s Hand and Kaffir Lime. Since selling the brand in 2010, he’s been vodka-free until this year. St. George’s new vodkas are less flamboyant and more workman-like, but no less artful. The All Purpose is smooth, robust, and easy going; California Citrus is fragrant with fruits and blossoms, yet remains restrained and modest, and Green Chile is destined to vivify a Bloody Mary or Margarita. All impress not with glitz, but with confident sophistication.