David Barzelay, chef-owner of Lazy Bear, takes bar snacks seriously at this new Mission space. Instead of chips for the sour-cream-and-onion dip, this summer he crisped up hen-of-the-woods mushrooms; a tostada came with amberjack and fava-bean “guacamole.” He changes the menu as often as Nicolas Torres does the cocktails. When peas were in season, they appeared in both a porridge with duck confit and the Pea-Casso, a drink with snap peas, clarified lime and aquavit; when apricots ripened, they went into Drupe in a Coupe (with pisco), as well as miso dressing for summer beans.
Tip: Reserve ahead for the cocktail tasting menu.
This review appears in the print edtion of the October 2018 issue. Like what you just read? Subscribe now.