Some of the best pizza in town is coming from restaurants that aren’t in the business of slinging pies or experimenting with sourdough ferments, like Mission Chinese and Gato,. And pizza is a great reason to visit Upland, a cavernous but inviting homage to chef Justin Smillie’s home state of California. His rectangular pies have a thicker, chewier crust than other New York slices, better to hold up his innovative toppings. Over a pesto and stracciatella base, he strews fresh pears, toasted pecans and arugula leaves; Calabrian sausage spices up an otherwise unadulterated tomato passata. To drink, choose from 500-some bottles.