The Beatrice Inn has a storied history, dating back to its speakeasy days in the 1920s. Now, Angie Mar reigns over the kitchen, specializing in nose-to-tail butchery and open-fire cooking. Gluttony isn’t sinful here; it’s celebrated with portions to feed an entire table. Start with the savory plum tart, then share an entrée like roast duck set afire tableside or the signature meat pie. The wine list is pricey, focused on big reds, but there are bargains available if you know where to look. Hint: Seek out the aged Corsican reds, reasonable Loire whites and textured rieslings. And don’t skip the Madeira page, mostly Bual, to pair with Mar’s whiskey-wrapped dry-aged beef.