In early 2018, chef Alex Burger, formerly of Bar Boulud in NYC, joined the exodus from the city, taking over the kitchen at The Amsterdam. On days and evenings when weather permits, the back patio is open at the Rhinebeck restaurant, and the fire pits are roaring; inside, many tables offer a view into the open kitchen. Start with a cocktail, whether a Negroni or one of their seasonal specials, and a plate of house-smoked ham or arctic char rillettes; then follow up with one of the standout handmade pastas. James Jusseaume presents a concise wine list that leans French, sprinkled with many picks from smaller producers in California. It’s best to call ahead for a reservation, but the town has a lively main drag if you walk in and have to wait for a table.