Grabbing dinner at St. Jack, an ode to the bouchons of Lyon, is a weekly ritual for many Portlanders. Large-paneled windows survey the streets of Northwest Portland, where designer dogs and well-heeled hipsters cruise by, while others idle over rustic French dishes at coveted sidewalk tables. Inside, Carla Bruni purrs, and wax-dripping candles the size of large tree stumps flicker from the zinc-top bar. Seven nights a week, executive chef Aaron Barnett turns out deeply satisfying bistro classics like mussels drenched in dry apple cider, lardons, Dijon, green peppercorn, garlic, new potatoes and cream; whole roasted trout on a bed of warm lentil salad; and seared foie gras with caramelized pineapple, toasted brioche and dark rum jus. Wine director Christopher Sky Westmoreland favors French and Northwest wines, plying a list deep in cru Beaujolais, Languedoc reds and pinot noir from the nearby Willamette Valley—including Thomas and Antica Terra, nano-wineries with cult-like followings.