Spago Beverly Hills is the flagship of the Wolfgang Puck empire. It’s so central to LA’s dining zeitgeist—an indispensable backdrop for movie stars, moguls, industry flacks and ladies who lunch—that it’s easy to forget how spectacular the food is. The offerings range from timeless Puck classics, like smoked salmon pizza, and chestnut agnolotti, to chef Tetsu Yahagi’s more adventurous creations, like veal cheek roasted in a stone pot and tossed with Vietnamese herbs. The wine list, now under the aegis of Canlis alum Philip Dunn, is massive, deep in the classics, especially California cabernet and German riesling. “For fine dining I am all in at Spago,” says Daniel Veit at Malibu’s Carbon Beach Club. “The location, the ambiance and Phillip Dunn’s wine program—yes, please. Special thanks to whoever purchased all of the Karthäuserhof Rieslings.”

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This review appears in the print edtion of the April 2019 issue. as our web exclusive content.
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