photo by Chris Granger

The latest from Donald Link (of Herbsaint and Cochon, among others), Gianna shows off the intersection of Italy and port-city New Orleans. The American south arrives in a flaky roasted Gulf whitefish and in braised chicken with a kick of spice; Italy appears in the pastas, like spaghetti with blue crab and bottarga or linen-thin spinach pasta folded over creamy beef ragù. It’s for dishes like this that Cary Palmer curated a selection of skin-contact wines, like Il Censo’s Prauar, a Sicilian catarratto, or Occhipinti’s SP68 Bianco; she finds their texture and savor create a bass line that amplifies flavor. Those qualities also govern the rest of her list, a quirky overview of Italy, the herbal pleasures of erbaluce or the hard-edged berry flavors of lagrein meant to create a harmony of rugged and rustic, delicate yet brooding.

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Restaurant Info

700 Magazine St., New Orleans, LA


This review appears in the print edtion of the December 2019 issue.
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