Restaurant Review

Pagu

The lobster roll at Pagu takes a sharp turn from the New England classic, its fresh-picked lobster meat flavored with Asian pear and soy aioli, on a squid-ink-black roll leavened by sake lees. For her tapas-style menu, chef Tracy Chang pulls on memories of her grandmother’s Japanese restaurant as well as lessons learned during stints at Boston sushi giant O-Ya and Martín Berasategui in San Sebastián, the result a delightful collision of cultures and flavors. Larry Rubin’s drink list keeps pace with the food, hopscotching around the globe to include Basque ciders, Kentish sparkling wine and sake. About half the modest wine list hails from Spain, with a cache that includes new-style wines like 2014 Descendientes de J. Palacios Petalos Bierzo, a 2013 Terroir al Límit Torroja from Priorat and the single-vineyard 2013 Suertes del Marqués La Solana from the Canary Islands. Check out the events schedule, too: Chang, a teaching fellow with Harvard’s Science & Cooking program, often collaborates with nearby universities for special dinners and tasting events.


 photo by Tracy Chang

Restaurant Review Info


310 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, Massachusetts

Japanese, Tapas

617-945-9290

gopagu.com


This review appears in the print edtion of the December 2017 issue.
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